In the Kitchen - December 30th

By Chef Moreno & Cinzia Miotto

Pepper, the most controversial spice in my kitchen! My personal belief is that pepper is the most overused and misused spice in the rack. I don’t know when it happened but at some point in history in a restaurant somewhere, probably in New York or some city on the east coast, a restaurateur thought it would be a great atmosphere enhancer to offer fresh ground pepper from a peppermill at your table. Ever since this unnecessary act of showmanship was first used it has unknowingly brainwashed people into thinking that every morsel of food that’s served to you requires fresh ground pepper to enhance the dish. Fresh ground pepper is very strong and aromatic, when used improperly it will destroy any kind of delicate aroma or subtle flavors you’re trying to convey in the dish. I’m not totally against pepper but it should be used sparingly or not at all with most dishes; for instance seafood, some pasta dishes, lamb, and certain wild game. There are different types of pepper that work well with certain ingredients. White pepper I find works well with tomato soup or potato and leek. Pink peppercorns are ideal with venison. Black pepper can be used with dishes that may have a salty component in them, like spaghetti carbonara, it has prosciutto (which is salt-cured ham) so it plays off it very nicely (salty & peppery - ying and yang). It also works well with a sweet component, when preparing duck breasts, I tend to salt and pepper them quite aggressively because I pair the breast with a sweet fruit sauce of some kind depending what’s in season (using the two flavors to play off each other - sweet one level and pepper the other). The peppercorn I use most at the White Goose Bistro kitchen is the green Madagascar peppercorn in brine. It has a subtle flavor to it but still has an edge to it. I use it in sauces for my steaks or when I’m braising. The recipe I’m going to talk about today is one of my favorites and one I like to cook for my VIP customers.

Recipe: Filet Mignon encrusted w/black peppercorns w/ a port wine sauce

Place course grind black peppercorns in large plate or shallow bowl, roll a thick cut filet on its side all around until fully crusted, lightly salt both sides of filet. Place a heavy skillet on high heat and fill with canola oil about 1/3 up the side of the filet and heat until smoking, place filet in skillet with tongs, sear one side until brown then flip and cook until brown. Remove filets and place on cookie sheet in oven (450 degrees) for 5-7 min. (this is for medium doneness, less time in oven for rare and medium rare). For the sauce; place equal amounts of tawny port and red wine in sauté pan, place on high heat and boil until reduces and it’s fairly thick, add a pinch of salt, remove from heat and add a teaspoon of unsalted butter and stir until butter is melted. Before serving the filet remember to rest the piece of meat somewhere warm for about 3-5 min., place filet on plate with vegetables and your choice of potato and pour sauce around plate.

Cinzia wine suggestion: a bold dry wine, Negro amaro from Sicily or a B.C. cabernet sauvignon

Buon Appetito

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