Lawns are a major part of many landscapes and should be done properly to ensure a healthy good looking lawn for many years to come. It is better to spend the extra time and money when putting in a new lawn now, rather than have to redo it in a few years. This means starting from the ground up with a good foundation.

The first thing that needs to be done is removing any debris such as rocks, roots and stumps. An old tree stump that is rotting under the ground will encourage mushroom growth in the lawn and when it eventually rots out will cause a dip in the lawn. After all unwanted debris has been removed you want to get rid of any existing weeds so spray them with ‘Round-up’, a non-selective herbicide which is inactive as soon as it contacts the soil so will not interfere with seed germination. 

Next step is establishing a rough grade by rototilling the area to a depth of 8-10 inches. Then you want to go over it with a ladder to make a grade, and slope it away from buildings, walkways, and driveways. 

At this time you want to do a pH check and a soil test making sure that the soil is rich with nutrients. The pH should be 6.5-7.0, if it is higher add sulfur or peatmoss to the soil and if too low add lime. Also, soil should be well-drained so if your base is clay,  you will have to add some topsoil. Very sandy soil will be too well drained allowing water and nutrients to disappear quickly as water will go directly down rather than laterally. I advise to bring in good soil if the existing soil is not good because it will pay off in the long run.

When the soil is right, make a final grade using a rake smoothing the surface making it ready to seed. Lumps, hills, and hollows should all be smoothed out as it is easier to do now rather than later when the grass has filled in. Go over the lawn with a lawnroller which will firm up the area creating a uniform planting surface. Sprinkle a slow release fertilizer or an organic based fertilizer on the area and rake it into the first 3 inches of soil. Roll it one more time and now you are ready to seed.

Use a spreader to seed the lawn as this will ensure an even amount of seed to be broadcasted. To determine what setting to use on the broadcaster mark off the area that one pound of seed will cover which is written on the bag. Put a ½ pound in the seeder and cover the area one way. Adjust the setting accordingly; if you have seed leftover enlarge the opening.  If not enough seed, means make the opening smaller. Now put in the other ½ pound of seed in the seeder and go over the area criss-cross. 

Now that the adjustments have been made, the seeder can be filled with seed and cover the lawn area one way and then criss-cross over the other way. After the seed has been spread, rake it in lightly with a bamboo rake and then go over it one more time with an empty lawn roller. Moisten the area with water making sure that the water does not puddle or run. You want to keep the area moist and not walk on it or pull any weeds. Any weeds that come up will be mowed off when the lawn is mowed which is done when the grass reaches a height of 2 ½ inches. 

Weedkillers are not applied until after the third mowing. The lawn should be fertilized every 3 months with a slow release fertilizer 24-6-12 and should be kept well watered for the first season. Stop fertilizing with 24-6-12 by mid August and fertilize with a winter feeder in September to ensure a strong healthy lawn to come back next spring!

Jos